#245. 24/12/04 Trujillo

Trujillo hosts the sad remains of two of the most important pre-Inca civilisations; Chimu and Moche. The former was centered in Chan Chan, the largest pre-Columbian city on the continent. Moche was earlier and famous for its enormous Sun and Moon temples. The scale of both sites are stunning and the skill involved in the carvings and decorations are fascinating. Visiting the sites left me a little depressed, reminding me that nothing, even these great civilisations, lasts forever, in this case washed away by El Niño or conquered by the Incas. If I'm walking through this ruined throne room now, who'll be walking through the ruins of the White House in 500 years?

The city of Trujillo is the third largest in Peru and retains much of its colonial architecture and is a pleasant enough place to stay and ride through Christmas.

Impressions of Peru are improving after that terrible border crossing. Compared to Ecuador, the streets are far more chaotic. It's overwhelming sometimes to put your foot outside the door. Strangers seem ruder or somehow more blunt, although people you talk to seem very pleasant and helpful. The division of wealth here is shocking and disgusting. Our hotel in the posh, leafy suburbs exists in stark contrast to the slums on the edge of town. Hungry children stand at street corners begging in the windows of stopped Mercedes cars. There seems to be more evidence of incompetence and organised corruption here; it almost reminds me of home.